WITH DONDRILL GLOVER OF AHMESA

One late spring evening after work, I visited my favorite neighborhood shop, INCASA. Eduardo, the owner (and a wonderful human being), was hosting a popup shop for AHMESA, an artisanal food and lifestyle company. Amidst the beautiful display of homegoods from around the world, AHMESA presented a delicious spread of salts, spices, and fresh, vibrant veggies.

As I savored bright tomatoes and crunchy cucumbers drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with AHMESA’s salts, Dondrill Glover, the company’s founder, began sharing the stories that inspired each flavor. I was immediately drawn to her warmth and the passion with which she spoke about her brand. The next day, while enjoying avocados seasoned with AHMESA salt, I found myself wishing I’d had the chance to hear more of Dondrill’s story. So, I connected with her on Instagram and, a few days later, we spoke on a sunny Saturday morning.

Our call began with Dondrill describing a beautiful heirloom tomato on her windowsill that brought her immense joy. She spoke about the importance and power in finding "small pockets of joy and building on them," sharing how this practice keeps her sane and hopeful.

That morning Dondrill shared how she spent her summers in South Carolina with her grandparents who were farmers that lived off the land. Her grandma made everything, even the butter, and would harvest the canning food for the winter in a shed her grandfather built her. It was not an easy life, but it instilled in Dondrill a deep respect for food and a love of hand made.

She recalled watching her grandmother effortlessly prepare for guests, witnessing the pride and love she poured into feeding her family and friends. After college, Dondrill began traveling abroad, first living in England. As the years went by, her curiosity and journeys widened and expanded. She encountered women—others’ grandmothers and aunties—everywhere, sharing traditions and connecting with people over food.

Deeply inspired by her travels to the culinary tables of Europe's Mediterranean regions, Turkey, the Middle East, and Mediterranean-influenced North African port cities, she found a warm, welcoming, and deep affection with people who live, love, and harvest from the land and its bountiful beauty. These experiences enriched her appreciation for the intricate connections between food, culture, and community, and fueled her passion for bringing these diverse culinary traditions to life.

Dondrill’s passion for this connection is palpable when she speaks of the import and beauty of gathering around a table, sharing delicious food with loved ones, slowing down, and truly being present with one another. There’s such wisdom in this sentiment.

In my daily rush—grabbing toast for breakfast, eating lunch at my computer, and watching Netflix during dinner—food is often reduced to sustenance. Yet, reflecting on moments where I felt most connected to others, they often centered around a table: holiday dinners with extended family, catching up with old friends over takeout and wine, date nights with my husband at our favorite local restaurant.

We live in such a complicated world, where nothing is guaranteed, and to have access to food is a gift. By taking the time to consider those who grew and harvested our food, savoring each bite, and sharing and connecting with those around us, we can honor our food, and cultivate a practice of gratitude. Perhaps we may even learn to derive joy from a heirloom tomato on a windowsill.

For more inspiration, follow Dondrill on Instagram @ahmesatable where she shares recipes, stories, and beautiful images that encourage slowing down and finding joy in the little things. You can find AHMESA artisanal collection of finishing salts and spices at various stores in NY—details are available here.

By Emily Rose Hill

ABOUT DONDRILL AND AHMESA

Former director of abcmkt, a celebration of the artisanal table within abc carpet & home, held enriched with partnerships with Chef Jean Georges abc kitchen and Hudson Valley farmers CSA abc initiative. In 2018 Dondrill founded Ahmesa, a coastal table of Mediterranean sea salts, Middle Eastern + Middle East + North African spices and seasonal farm heritage preserves, inspired by summers at the handmade table of her grandparents farm and her travels. A social entrepreneur with 10+ yrs of experience specializing in Artisan Development, Sustainable and Social Impact Design in developing countries with handmade artisans in NGO’s and other philanthropic orgs. In 2021 -2023 AHMESA in partnership with ATA Mexico and the KW Foundation Initiative driving sustainable economic development handcrafted foods in the Yucatan region, with Ahmesa curating 14 recipes for the US Market debut at New York’s summer fancy food show.